C/M No Sport Utility Vehicles

C/M Sport Utility Vehicle. SUV

Zero Emissions 

OPT FOR

Commercial Cargo Bus

Kit suspension similar to Trophy Truck or add an extra seat row on a Trophy Truck

We do not build "like-off-road" vehicles which are basic lifted sedans with a hatch behind seating

Not a platform that meets race standards at C/M

"Most do Trophy Truck with cargo rear kit accessory rather than open box" 

C/M No Sport Utility Vehicles 

A sport utility vehicle (SUV) is a popular car category that mixes normal passenger car features with off-road traits like high ground clearance and all-wheel drive

AVERAGE EV MODERN WITH RANGE EXTEND

To calculate the total cost to cover a 919 km range at a consumption rate of 13.6 kWh/100 km, you first need to determine the total energy used, which is 124.98 kWh.

Because electricity prices vary heavily depending on your location, charging method, and time of day, the final cost will scale directly with your local utility rates.

Based on a total consumption of 124.98 kWh (138.87 kWh wall energy including charging overhead), a 919 km journey will cost you as little as $5.56 using cheap overnight home electricity, or up to $69.44 if you rely entirely on premium public fast-charging stations.

Total energy kWh = total range/ reference distance x consumption

kW is Energy Generated. kWh is Energy Stored for use

Metered Rates or almost Perpetual Hydrogen rates run $15-25 on 400 Km of use whereas the above mentioned is $6.53 - $16.32 in equivlance (BMW ix3 919 km range / 13.6 km/100km)

"We oversupply Perpetual Hydrogen for Automotive separate from Stationary Rates to compete equal utilizing low or no Energy Zero Emissions logitistics supply chains piggybacked off others" 

Rates can be variable as C/M has a taxation integration with light R&D fee alongside overall lower operating maintenance costs plus initial purchase pricing & advanced Emergency Safety System

https://anti-deficitsbun.blogspot.com/2026/07/cypress-motor-sports-metering-if.html

UK - Commonwealth Canada conversions not Imperial American USA

Performance & Efficiency Upscales for 2026-2030 onward in all areeas of Motion & Stationary Energy globally while retrofit Kits update old 

Lower rates destroy gasoline & diesel demand for a fair spread profit focusing Net Zero & non-combuston Oil! 

Cypress Motors. Cypress Motor Sports 

SYDNEY NICOLA BENNETT'S UN FRAMEWORK

What is plastic. Micro-plastics. Alternatives?

Plastic is made primarily from fossil fuels like crude oil and natural gas, which are broken down into small chemical units called monomers and linked into long chains called polymers.

Raw Materials

Crude oil and natural gas: The main sources for most common plastics.

Plants and trees: Used to make newer bio-based plastics from materials like cellulose.

Basic elements: Mostly carbon and hydrogen, sometimes mixed with oxygen, nitrogen, or chlorine. 

How It Is Made

Refining: Crude oil is heated in a tower to separate it into lighter parts, such as naphtha.

Cracking: High heat breaks large molecules down into smaller gases like ethylene and propylene.

Polymerization: Small gas molecules are joined together in long, repeating chains to form plastic resin.

Shaping: The resin is melted, cooled into tiny pellets, and then heated again to be molded into final products. 



PLASTIC REPURPOSED 

Plastic can be repurposed through industrial recycling, commercial upcycling, and creative home do-it-yourself projects. Common methods include melting it down into new pellets, shredding it for 3D printer filament, or washing and refilling containers. 

Industrial and Commercial Repurposing

New Containers and Bottles: Polyethylene terephthalate (PET) and high-density polyethylene (HDPE) bottles are melted and spun into new beverage containers or polyester clothing fibers.

Construction and Lumber: Durable plastics are transformed into composite plastic lumber, park benches, outdoor decking, and bricks.

Automotive and Goods: Recycled plastics become car bumpers, wheel arch liners, toys, and storage crates.

Home and Creative Repurposing

Refilling Containers: Cleaning and cosmetic bottles can be thoroughly washed and refilled with bulk household products.

Garden Planters: Plastic jugs and bottles make effective seedling starters or hanging plant pots.

3D Printing: Clean plastic bottles can be cut and fed into specialized home devices to create 3D printer filament.



COMMON 

Common electrical cords are made from copper or aluminum for the inside metal wires, and plastic or rubber for the outer protective jacket and insulation. 

Conductor Core (Inside Metals)

Copper: The most popular choice because it carries electricity very well, bends easily, and resists rust..

Aluminum: Lighter and cheaper than copper, often used for heavy-duty power lines or large appliances.

Insulation and Outer Jackets (Outside Coverings)

PVC (Polyvinyl Chloride): A tough, low-cost plastic used for everyday household cords and cable covers.

Rubber or Neoprene: Used on heavy outdoor or industrial cords because it stays flexible in cold weather and handles rough use.

Nylon: Often added as a thin outer layer over plastic insulation to protect against tearing.

MICROPLASTICS 

Microplastics are tiny plastic pieces less than five millimeters long that come from primary manufacturing or the breakdown of larger items. They pollute global ecosystems and have been found in water, soil, air, and living tissues. 

Types of Microplastics

Primary Microplastics: Particles originally made to be small, such as microbeads in facial scrubs, plastic glitter, and industrial resin pellets (nurdles). 

Secondary Microplastics: Fragments created when larger items like water bottles, synthetic clothing, car tires, and fishing nets break down from sun and wear. 

Where They Are Found

Environment: Oceans, deep seas, remote mountain snow, and soil.

Living Things: Fish, farm animals, and human blood, lungs, and organs. 

HEALTHIEST POOL OPTIONS

The healthiest pool care options use mineral systems, ozone, or biguanide (PHMB) combined with minimal sanitizer to cut down on harsh chemicals.

Low-Chemical and Mineral Systems

Mineral Pools: Use natural elements like magnesium, silver, and copper to sanitize water, reducing traditional chlorine needs by up to 80%.

Ozone / UV Systems: Supplemental units that kill 99.9% of bacteria and viruses via light or gas, drastically lowering the amount of harsh chemical disinfectants required.

Biguanide (PHMB): A truly chlorine-free, non-oxidizing liquid system (such as Baquacil) that disrupts bacteria cells without red eyes, dry skin, or strong chemical odors.

Gentle Balancing Basics

Baking Soda (Sodium Bicarbonate): Used safely and naturally to raise total alkalinity and keep pH stable without synthetic additives.
Natural Enzymes: Plant-based enzyme treatments break down body oils, lotions, and organic waste to keep water clear with fewer harsh shocks.

STANDARD

A standard swimming pool typically uses either a saltwater chlorine generator or a traditional bromine/chemical setup rather than a true "saltwater bromine" system, because salt generators create chlorine, and bromine is a separate chemical halogen. Bromine is gentler on skin and eyes and remains stable in warm water, but it degrades rapidly in outdoor sunlight.

Key Differences: Salt vs. Bromine

Saltwater Systems: Use sodium chloride and electrolysis to automatically generate free chlorine. They offer softer-feeling water and low daily maintenance.

Bromine Systems: Use slow-dissolving tablets or sodium bromide banks. They produce no harsh chemical odors and cause less eye irritation, making them ideal for indoor pools or hot tubs.

Safety and Health: Both maintain safe sanitation when kept at ideal levels (1–3 ppm for pools), but bromine is less effective as an outdoor pool sanitizer because sunlight breaks it down quickly without a specialized sun-shield.

SALT WATER - BROMINE

A salt water bromine pool treatment combines sodium bromide salt with an oxidizer to sanitize water, maintaining ideal residential levels between 1–3 ppm. Standard saltwater pool generators make chlorine rather than bromine, so true bromine salt systems require specific chemical activation or specialized brominating setups.

How Bromine Treatment Works
Sodium Bromide: Added to the pool water to build a bromide reserve.

Oxidizer / Shock: Non-chlorine shock or an activator is added to turn the bromide into active hypobromous acid, which kills bacteria and algae.

Recharge Cycle: Unlike chlorine, used bromine turns back into bromide ions when it tackles waste, ready to be reactivated again by adding more oxidizer.

Core Maintenance Steps

Test the Water: Keep pH levels balanced between 7.0 and 7.6.

Maintain Sanitizer: Keep free bromine levels at 1–3 ppm for standard pools (or up to 5 ppm for heavy indoor use/spas).

Add Tablets or Shock: Use slow-dissolving bromine tablets in a dedicated automatic feeder or floating dispenser, supplemented by weekly oxidizer shocks.

SALT WATER

A salt water bromine treatment uses an automated salt generator system to convert dissolved sodium bromide salt into active free bromine sanitizer, maintaining steady disinfection levels with minimal daily chemical handling.

System Setup and Operation

Initial Salinity: Dissolve specific sodium bromide salt into the water following manufacturer guidelines to establish the baseline bank.

Electrolysis Process: Low-voltage DC current passes through specialized graphite or titanium plates in the system cell, turning bromide ions into active bromine.

Perpetual Cycle: After sanitizing waste and bacteria, free bromine reverts back into usable bromide ions, ready to be converted again by the salt cell.

Routine Maintenance

Water Balance: Keep total alkalinity between 80–120 ppm and maintain pH levels stable between 7.2 and 7.8.

Oxidizing Shock: Add a non-chlorine oxidizer (potassium peroxymonosulfate) weekly to reactivate and refresh the bromide reserve.

Cell Inspection: Clean and check the generator plates periodically for scale buildup to ensure uninterrupted low-voltage current flow.

BROMINE

Bromine is a safe, approved chemical used to kill bacteria and germs in hot tubs.

Facts About Bromine and Water Safety

Sanitizer Role: Bromine keeps hot tub water clean by destroying harmful bacteria and germs.

Heat Stability: It works better than chlorine in hot water because it stays stable at high temperatures.

No Brain Risk: Standard pool and spa chemicals properly control microorganisms and prevent waterborne disease.

Proper Hot Tub Levels

Ideal Bromine Range: Keep levels between 4.0 to 6.0 PPM in residential hot tubs.

Ideal pH Range: Keep water pH balanced between 7.2 and 7.6 so bromine can work effectively.

Drinking bromine-sanitized pool water is not safe, though accidental swallowing of small amounts while swimming usually only causes mild stomach upset.

Risks of Ingesting Pool Bromine

Chemical irritation: Concentrated bromine or treated pool water can burn and irritate the mouth, throat, and stomach lining.

Gastrointestinal distress: Swallowing more than a tiny sip can lead to nausea and vomiting.

Toxicity: Unlike low levels meant for safe skin contact in a balanced pool, high concentrations or direct ingestion of pool chemicals are toxic.

POOL & HOT TUB

Properly maintained pool and hot tub chemicals completely eliminate the brain-eating amoeba (Naegleria fowleri). There are no confirmed cases of infection in pools or spas with correct disinfectant and pH levels.

Recommended Chemical Levels

Pool Chlorine: Keep free chlorine at 1.0 to 3.0 ppm (parts per million) or up to 10 ppm if not using cyanuric acid.

Hot Tub Chlorine/Bromine: Keep free chlorine at 2.0 to 4.0 ppm or bromine at 4.0 to 6.0 ppm.
pH Balance: Maintain pH levels between 7.2 and 7.8 for optimal sanitizer effectiveness.

Safety Facts

Kill Time: Just 1.0 ppm of free chlorine kills 99.9% of Naegleria fowleri in under 9 minutes.

Transmission: Infection only happens when contaminated water goes forcefully up the nose; swallowing the water is harmless.

If you need help adjusting your water, tell me:
• Is it a pool or hot tub?What are your current test strip readings (chlorine, pH)?

Maintaining a saltwater pool is easier than a traditional chlorine pool, but it is not completely hands-off. The most critical steps are balancing your water chemistry (especially pH), cleaning your salt cell every 3 months to prevent calcium scaling, and running your pump long enough to ensure adequate chlorine production.

Weekly Maintenance and Cleaning

Skim and Brush: Skim the surface, brush the walls, and vacuum the bottom once a week to prevent debris from feeding algae.

Empty Baskets: Check and empty the skimmer and pump baskets every few days. Clogged baskets restrict water flow, which can trigger salt cell errors.

Circulation: Run your pool pump for at least 8 to 10 hours daily to ensure the entire volume of water turns over and passes through the salt cell.

Water Chemistry

Even though your salt system generates chlorine, you must still monitor other chemical levels. Test your water weekly during the summer using a reliable test kit or Leslie's Pool Supplies guide.

Salt Levels: Ideal range is 2,700 to 3,400 ppm (3,200 ppm is perfect). Salt is only lost through splash-out, backwashing, or overflow, so you usually only need to add salt once or twice a season.

pH: Keep between 7.2 and 7.8. Saltwater systems naturally cause pH to rise. Use muriatic acid or pH decreaser weekly to bring it down.

Free Chlorine: Aim for 2 to 4 ppm. Adjust your salt system’s output percentage or daily run time based on this reading.

Cyanuric Acid (CYA): Maintain between 60 and 80 ppm. CYA protects chlorine from the sun; add stabilizer if your levels drop.

Total Alkalinity (TA): Keep between 80 and 120 ppm.

Calcium Hardness: Keep between 150 and 400 ppm. Keeping this on the lower side helps prevent salt cell scaling.

Salt Cell Maintenance

Your salt chlorine generator contains titanium plates that convert salt to chlorine. These plates attract calcium, especially when the pH is high.

Inspection: Visually check your salt cell every 3 months for white, crusty calcium scaling.

Cleaning: If scaling is present, soak the cell in a solution of 5 parts water to 1 part muriatic acid. Always pour the acid into the water (not the other way around) and wear protective gear. Never use metal tools to scrape the plates.

Seasonal Considerations

Water Temperature: Salt cells stop producing chlorine when water temperatures drop below 60°F (15.5°C). You will need to switch to manual chlorination during winter or when the pool is closed.

Heavy Use/Storms: If your pool experiences heavy bather loads or severe rainfall, use the "super-chlorinate" (or boost) mode on your generator to shock the pool, or manually add liquid chlorine.

C/M CYPRESS MOTORS. MOTOR SPORTS